The manufacturer was notified of the failures. Could be lack of fuel volume or bad cam timing vanos or any one of many complex parts not working properly. The cap and rotor are brand new, but the actual distributor has not been replaced. It shakes all the time but mostly when I am stopped at a red light or when I try to go over 40mph. Well I pulled out the pre cat oxygen sensors, but plugged them in the harness so not to show circuit trouble and supported them. Great news is that they installed a whole new y pipe with converters and I did not have to pay a cent for any of it. For any questions, reach out to the helpful staff that provides trustworthy advice.
Dump him if you feel weakness of ability. Thanks SteveSteve H at the fuel rail? Dump him if you feel weakness of ability. In which case air has been introduced into the system, causing the difficulty in steering. I've also tried unplugging the idle air valve or whatever it's called. Recently, my 2004 325i with 45,000 miles has lost power steering. The fuel filter is probably really really old so maybe I should replace that before I start fucking around with sensors.
I was told they cant get the part. If the idle jumps you knnw you have a leak in that area. Could be lack of fuel volume or bad cam timing vanos or any one of many complex parts not working properly. Theme days You're welcome to post anything you want within our rules. I took my car into the mechanic and they informed me that there was a recall on battery terminals.
The pump went out on my 325 and I had all the parts installed in about half an hour. I stopped for a bit, and then got back on the highway for another 50 miles or so, and it didn't happen at all. The car does just fine at cold start. Because the leak must be considerable to produce the effects you are reporting, my guess is that what Manolito says above, or the brake booster is leaking vacuum. This means that the ability to write new posts and access various member features will go away.
Great news is that they installed a whole new y pipe with converters and I did not have to pay a cent for any of it. I've also tried unplugging the idle air valve or whatever it's called. If you have no leaks, seems to me your fluid level in the resevoir got low enough to cavitate the pump. Intake manifold, have you checked the Disa valve? Chris answered 10 years ago i agree alot of times in these older cars it can be a problem with vacuum and its a pain in the ass to trace however take 15-20 minutes follow the vacuum lines if you see one unplugged and an obvious place to put it try that first then if not replace the fuel filter it will never hurt to replace a filter of any kind and its easy if still no good try the shop Robert answered 10 years ago My guess would be a vacuum leak as well. I tried spraying throttle body cleaner in the engine bay and it had no effect on the idle. But there was fluid in the reservoir. The car purrs and when listening to the exhaust has no malfunctions.
I proceeded to refill the reservoir to the appropriate level. It would hit it when I was around 3000 rpm. Its the bit on the right next to the engine where some kind of tank sits. I'll get back to you with the results of checking the sensor. If you've reset the adaptions, have a look at the throttle valve to see if it's sticking or clogged up with crap. Absolutely check that all your sensors work.
Mine turned out to be a combination of a worn afm carbon track. This is a window I very seldom use. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue and were not able to confirm when the parts were to become available. Buy a gauge if you don't already have one; it's an excellent investment. But there was fluid in the reservoir. The manufacturer was contacted and notified of the failure. I experienced twice such complete loss of power, for the entire vehicle: engine, doors, lights and even the key cannot be removed from contact.