Stil rumbles like crazy when idling. Keep us updated on your build. Get a repair manual for the car, chilton and haynes are popular. Then at a red light, without warning or lights, the car totally stalled. Changed mounts, cleaned air idle control valve and throttle body. Rocks and stuff can get behind the part of the mount that bolts to the frame which defeats the purpose of rubber in the middle from suppressing vibrations.
The addition of a shield in the picture is intended to keep the rocks and stuff from getting in behind the mount causing a reoccurence of that problem. I looked at it and heard a significant vacuum leak. Why is a brake booster failing after 45k miles?! I do remember the intake tech saying it could be the fuel system because it sounded like the fuel was not flowing smooth. Inspect the rear engine roll restrictor for debris 2. I go to the same dealer-no where else and still get the run around. The vibration is worse when in gear than in neutral In gear there is a much greater load on the engine.
Barnes most coils have their nominal resistance printed on them; you can use a multimeter to determine the actual resistance of the coil, and if it's way off it means something is wrong and the coil busted; I think there are other ways coils can go bad, but this is the most common. This is what I have: But I did change this. That has been an issue from day one-all door switches!!! After spending a lot of money and time on different mechanics, I found a solution. If not, how hard would it be to replace the mount? I'll try and find those codes however it was definitely just the one. Wipe it clean and repeat the process until the carbon or dirt is completely removed. They pretty much get me in, do a little something to the car to shut me up, and then rush me out the door.
Not as active as FocusFanatics. Left and it immediately started acting up again. Does this go over the mount? The symptoms: rough shaking when accelerating at low speeds, same shaking going around tight curves and uphill. I still need to figure out what is wrong with my car. The only other possible fix that I can think of right now involves a bucket of gasoline and a match. Remove any debris from rear engine roll restrictor.
Ask questions and discuss technical information. The car has 50,000miles on it and I want to make sure Im not buying a problem. Also, please take note that you are driving an Inline 4. Posted on Feb 01, 2010. Rocks and stuff can get behind the part of the mount that bolts to the frame which defeats the purpose of rubber in the middle from suppressing vibrations. My Focus vibrated when turning the wheel to the right and moving.
Now today I had the driver's side engine mount replaced by the same garage but sadly it doesn't look like it has fixed the problem as when pulling up outside my house with the air con on, the vibrations are still present! Smooth as…Well, smooth as a new Focus. . Be sure you're being clear with your issue. Changing an engine mount is moderately complicated, in the case of the rear mount, you need to hold up the engine whilst the car is safely off the ground. Since this is only happening at idle, do this to see if it makes a difference. To confirm that you have a bad idle control valve, check its resistance with an ohmmeter.
It used to be 1. He has done everything he knows how to do including purchasing a new tool to work on the idle. Only one fault code noted. Focus that it didn't go well up Thompson hill. Bad Output Speed Sensor on the transmission.
I keep up with wear-n-tear stuff too!!! Warmed up the engine, ran the test, and here's what I have for results. Since I paid off my car I was hoping to have it for awhile. It also throws a trouble code saying it's running lean. It doesn't hold at a particular rpm it just goes anywhere between that constantly. The engine bay in that Focus does not shake no where near what mine does too! I just got this Focus from the dealership not too long ago. One month later on March 17, 18, 19 2011 the car started the idling rough and stalling again. Please tell me this is something stupid and simple.
It's definitely no idling too low. If the resistance reading does not fall within 7. He said it should work fine just idle ruff especially when running the air conditioner. Has anyone else experienced this? They don't lube anything or clean anything at Ford dealers. Ask questions and discuss technical information. There's the hydraulic mount that I'm not sure exactly how to test. It only does this as well when the engine is warm and idling at the normal 800ish rpm and it never does this after a cold start when the engine is cold and idles just over 1000rpm until thne engine is warm.
Just today I was stopped in traffic, and when it started to move, my car stalled and wouldn't restart. Maybe an idle air control valve, mass airflow sensor, throttle position sensor or the whole throttle body! If this is a Focus wagon, sheck the rear shocks. As far as replacing the mounts goes. From an auto technician's point of view, you need to give more details in order to zero in on the true nature and cause of your concern. I have also had this vibration and reducing rpm and shutdown problem in my Camry. Someone suggested I try injector cleaning fluid and that seemed to have made a difference, but only until I was done with that one tank of gas. They test drove the car and could not duplicate it.