With proper drain intervals and normal driving it should easily outlast te engine. When its cold most particles sink to the bottom yes, but they tend to stay on the bottom in the pan and not come out. Question, wouldn't the extra oil -- if we put the bolt back in fast enough -- be good for that top gear. What kind of mechanic was it? I just think its stupid to drive a car harder than its designed for. Next you will need to locate your fill plug, if you have an Injen cold air intake, the intake basically circles where the fill plug is.
I used Redline manual trans. You'd probably use this oil here: or a 0W-30 like me. I'm on a time sensitive situation at all times with my clients and the last thing I need is to be told the part s i was charged for upfront is not in stock like it said it was, so now not only am I wasting my time, fuel, money! I started using atf a while back again, i ran it dry again and just managed to stop before it seized up earlier this year. The car was not lifted on all four sides, only on the drivers-side, also my driveway is on a slight incline. Was it a shop that specializes in transmissions? On the verge of falling apart. All my gears work just fine and it shifts good.
The thing is that the pressures inside are supposed to go up and down depending on other conditions. I stopped fast :p hitting the clutch didnt help. Had to top it up once a month with about 1. On the verge of falling apart. Had I know about the synchromesh when my clutch needed replacing then I would've done it then. In regards to your example.
I'll definitely update this thread down the line. Never heard about or looked into blending them. For a good website on oil, check out bobistheoilguy. The wear characteristics are like night and day. It would be like a flush without wasting as much money Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I may not get much but every little bit helps to some degree, which is the point.
I go through about 1. For now, I may just buy some pennzoil synchromesh from a local autoparts store and drive it a few days or for one long drive then flush it and put in the good stuff. Engineered for and meets requirements of Honda Automatic Transmission with Z-1 specifications. A few years ago it started leaking bad and i was always adding fluid. Remove the filler hole bolt to allow for breathing then the drain bolt.
However manuel transmissions dont seem to wear unless shifts get messy or that crunch going into reverse. By the way, if you change your own engine oil you can probably change the tranny oil. That is why you see the fluid coming out the fill plug. When it comes to your Honda Civic, you want parts and products from only trusted brands. My understanding is the tranny flush process is easy enough.
Mechanics have been amazed when the see the inside of my engines because they're so clean. If the transmission fluid level in your Civic is low, you need to add transmission fluid through the dipstick tube. If you have decent access, it's an easy 15 minute job. The product worked good for a customers 2005 ford freestyle and you can't beat the online discounts compared to any other parts store. Im definitely not one who believes in ragging a car to death. But, it ran very low on fluid, with the wrong fluid regularly and was seized twice.
What should the ratio be when using the two? It helps protect against the formation of sludge, varnish and foam. Towed a lot with it. The reason your flushing is because not everything comes out the first time, but if you put cheap fluid in for a flush and then good stuff you still have a lot of the cheap stuff left in there. Otherwise, driving longer is the equivalent to just completing a fluid change and re-doing it sooner than needed. What size sockets are needed for both bolts? I own a 2009 Honda Civic coupe…right under 69,000 miles. Then inform the owner of the oil change place that they owe you a new transmission for the damage they did and you will be taking them to court. Some of our top Automatic Transmission Fluid product brands are , and.
It is also important to make sure the car is level when doing the flush. Plus, I didn't know how good the factory fill was. Stick with Honda because it is formulated to protect our finicky transmissions. Changed a lot of them too and my civic trans fluid was up there with like the top 20 worst smelling oils. I work in a quite large shop now, finished changing the civic trans fluid at 8am, turned all the exhaust fans on and my boss came in at 10 and complained about how bad it smelled still.
It is recommended to do the service on a leveled surface. Different brands have different additives and react with eachother. The day I want a car to rag on it'll be 'cuz I can afford something that can handle how hard I want to push it. I just think its stupid to drive a car harder than its designed for. If so, was it a locally owned and independent shop with a known-good reputation? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Im definitely not one who believes in ragging a car to death.