Its a very fine abrasive polish, then proceed with the other stuff. The process was fairly easy. I used it all the time as I still do. There are four common groups. A gallon of the proper surface cleaner runs about twenty or twenty five dollars it is money well spent.
Use and application of any of the site's content is at the user's own risk. A very slow evaporating cleaner. All information on this site is the property of Stuart's Autobodystore. Have a few rags ready to go folded in fourths. It is a good cleaner because it is weak and will not attack any soft substrates like lacquer, uncured enamels, etc. This is assuming its original paint or a very old repaint.
We have to spray it out of a spray bottle. I would see a lacquer paint job I did a year or so later and there would be water spots on it, coming from under or within the paint. But it has turned out to be a great way to use this product. If you keep repeating the process,you will eventually go thru the paint. Be sure to use the proper cleaner and wipe it dry really well. If the surface is really dirty, clean it a few times changing to clean rags every time.
I've found it's pretty hard to get the same gloss by hand that you get with a foam pad on a buffer. Remember, you want to wipe off the contaminants, so if you use the same rags on the subsequent wipes you can leave the contaminants you wiped off on the first wipe! Still, I managed to do it without any wrinkles using the fiber burnishing tool only. One reason we use so little is how we use it. You spray the panel and then wipe it off. Most people dont realise that wax adds very little shine, its a protectorant.
Since these situations cannot be duplicated, you may get different results. So that being said, at that rate a gallon should last a home hobbyist a lifetime, so buy the right product for the job. Like most things we are forced to do, we resist. It is very slow evaporating so you have to be sure it is fully evaporated after wiping before you apply any paint product over it. It looked just like you would have when you dry a car in the sun and the water would dry in the patterns that the wet towel left. When you have a reason to believe there is a particularly bad contaminant you may need to go to a stronger cleaner. In the last few years this has gotten much easier to do.
I clay barred in the spring and used Mothers Carnuba wax, but I think I can get more out of it. Wiping before applying primer or paint of course is also recommended. Of course you do have to contend with getting the swirl marks out. Start with ultra fine polish abrasive and work coarser if needed from there. Not that they are to be used in different temp shops but that they flash faster or slower than another.
Nor do you need a super fast one when you are doing your first wipe down of a greasy car prior to sanding. To be honest, my experiance is mostly buffing fresh finishes and I use 3M products for that. Once you get the first gloss, apply the best paint sealant then a wax. I did the aileron in three pieces of Flite-Metal as I was not comfortable doing such a large piece on my first try. One more thought,with you as my ginuei pig,I have wondered what that liquid kitchen floor polish would do on an old paint job. Go to your paint store and get the real thing. Then be sure that any remainder has flashed off evaporated before applying your primer or paint.
The gallon will last you through many projects, a few cars even. Disclaimer: The ideas and methods described in this web site were developed under unique situations. Now a days the disposable rag is king. It is also much to strong a solvent for most cleaning and can get under the edges of sand thrus or soften substrates. Some are designed for cleaning soft substrates like lacquer while others are much more harsh for cleaning enamel substrates.