Those things can rev past 7k pretty easily. I'm going to keep this updated with pics, as I finnish each part of the project. I had mine checked a couple years ago when I had an oil pan baffle installed to help reduce oil starvation under certain conditions. Pressing in the replacement was pretty easy using my press. I'd be surprised if you didn't toast some of the top end parts. Remember that the nut is reverse thread.
I'd be surprised if you didn't toast some of the top end parts. These nuts have a habit of coming off in track situations, leaving you with no oil pressure and a blown engine. Do you feel some elasticity in the drivetrain at all? This is a little disconcerting. Think I damaged the rockers or chain tensioner? The other, smaller, M54 engines don't suffer from this anywhere near as much; it's mostly a 330i thing. I would think they would same they are the same engines. If it weren't, we'd hear about it a lot more on these forums just think of how many threads we get on things like the cooling system Anyone know what year that car was? The cam sensors are reading intermittent on bank 1 and bank 2.
These nuts have a habit of coming off in track situations, leaving you with no oil pressure and a blown engine. Is this only a thing that is seen in track cars or what? If any one is interested, I will pass the details. If you catch it super quick and at low rpm you'd likely get away with rebuilding the engine with new bearings etc, maybe a crank polish. Well, the problem goes pretty deep. I believe you can see it if you drop the oil pan and look at the pump. Our particular interaction has extended over many months and never have I felt that I wasn't getting first-class service. If the nut comes loose and falls off, the sprocket will no longer spin with the shaft.
Hitting redline briefly and staying at redline for a period of time are different situations. Very common with the E36 M3 guys too. I was browsing other forums and seems a lot of people say how bad the 3. You seem clued up on gear ratio's, I feel the 330 is a great car, just geared too long, which is perfect for the long road. Needless to say, this made me quite uneasy. Performance wise the car is 100%, only issue is changing gears, 1st to 2nd sucks a bit and it sometimes feel like the car just grabs the gear but no slipping.
Since I found my oil pump nut backing off a while back, I have been bit paranoid. The 330i is powered by the 3ltr M54B30 engine, and it was ok, but less revvy than I expected; feeling a bit dead beyond about 6000rpm. Oil pan gasket sold separately. Going to be starting next week Yea, it's as you say, the problem could really be anything and taking it to a mechanic each time just costs more a more money. On the plus side, it's worth replacing things like the engine mounts and bushings if it hasn't been done since new. It ran for 20 seconds before it seized up.
So this is the list so far, still pricing out most. Safety-wiring critical fasteners is always a good backup plan, as long as you have somewhere to secure it. So Standard mounts it is :- i put an e90 6 speed on my car and im running a 3. I suppose I could go shorter, but by my calculations that would be a comfortable ratio for daily driving. So what have I done on mine? I cleaned the threads with acetone, blew them off with compressed air, put some Red LocTite on the threads, and torqued it to the proper spec. Is this only a thing that is seen in track cars or what? It would have been nice to have torque info for the pump bolts in the instructions.
Just went around my local salvage yard and looked at all the engines they had laying around. All warranties, product application, fitment, and performance are the responsibility of Turner Motorsport. Thanks, This is one of the weakness of the M54 engine. The nut holding the drive sprocket on your oil pump can become loose over time. If you're doing any work with the oil pan off rod bearings, oil pan baffle, oil pan gasket, etc that is the perfect time for this precautionary upgrade. So if you want to confirm that you have the correct clutch or need part numbers for most mechanical components including suspension, check this out Bayn46, this maybe useful for you.
Personally, I have never had any customer cars with the issue. So I'd say on daily drivers it is a non issue. The nut in question is what holds the the oil pump's sprocket on to the shaft. This nut is pre-drilled for safety wire, and it's the perfect solution for preventing this future problem. Should the tensioner hold pressure or bleed down without running? Kit includes new pump shaft, sprocket, and inner rotor.