Do not turn the axles after removing this, or you could spend a lot of time trying to get it back in! All of this additional width is on the passenger side. Then use your three jaw puller and slide hammer to pull out the bad seal, I do not have pictures for this and thankfully Ronin8002 supplied them. So from that example, we can see that the tag above is a 7. The early 1983-1992 Ranger axles are 1-inch shorter than the 1993-up pieces Both sides. Pinion gear bearings, worn gear set and all kinds of other stuff.
Then, of course, clean the mounting surfaces of the diff cover and diff, then put some silicone on the diff cover. Place a drift punch down through the center of the hub onto the edge of the inner grease seal and tap it out with a hammer. I have a D4 code differential; 3. Since I was only replacing the one side the other tire was on ground and I was able to use a ratchet without having it spin on me. I sat jack stands under the front leaf spring mounts, just high enough that the tires were off the ground. Now go ahead and fill 'er up with gear lube you can get your filler plug loose, right? You will get some more gear lube leakage out of the axle tube. I pull it off the bolt and blow thru it but due to the design I have yet to find a blocked one.
Taking it to a gear shop + parts would cost more than a junk yard axle. After going through your pics I come up with a question: While you'd removed the drive shaft out of the diff and replacing the seal have you also replaced the drive shaft pilot bearing? I ended up havin to rent it from Schmucks, because the locally-owned shop I would have was closed already. No rubber grip or cushion on the handle, and honestly would have probably been easier with one that was a bit longer. Use a socket to remove the two bolts that hold the caliper frame. Which, of course, never helped a soul.
Buy Ford Ranger Rear Axle Parts Get to know our inventory. Use channel locks to remove the dust cover cap on the hub. The wheel bearings on the Ford Ranger endure a lot of stress, weight and heat due to friction. I did it this way, so that there would be as much room between axle and body as possible to work in there. Also which number s are the bearings you are referring to? The axle popped out just as described above using a piece of wood and a couple of whacks from a 3-lbs hammer. Finish removing the wheels with the tire iron and set the wheels aside.
Yeah, from what the guys on this forum have told me, it's not something the average do-it-yourself guy can do in his garage. If yours look like this or worse , the best thing to do would be to just replace the shafts. Of course I tested for stability before starting any work, and also chocked the front tires. Using the chart below, we know that this axle is a 7. It uses horseshoe clips on the inboard end of the axle shafts. Pull the hub and rotor off the spindle.
The exact axle code is given on the door tag or on the stamp on the assembly. That link makes it seem like I need to replace the differential itself, not replace the axle shaft bearings. For information on axle swaps, as well as the measurements of the Ford Explorer 8. Screw on the castellated nut by hand. It is a known problem with the 8. It never made a noise and when I did my brakes i noticed the play in the hub. This means that it is a Limited Slip axle.
Place the caliper frame over the rotor and install the bolts. Ensuring that the case is filled with the right oil will keep things lubricated. What you need to do now, is for the side you're working on, push the axle shaft in until you can get access to the c-clip. Tighten the castellated nut with the channel locks, but align the cotter pin hole with the nut and spindle. The hose upper end will have a plastic fitting in the end with a loose fitting cap also. Tap the inner race out with the hammer.
Next step is to remove the diff cover. I'm not sure about 2wd. I have not been able to contact them to ascertain which one is the one they will actually send. Now it's easy as pie to slide the shaft out. I have seen this happen at the pinion seal at input yoke seal as well as axle seals. Place the inner bearing inside the race. Use 10mm socket, remove the brake calipers, taking care to not let them hang by the brake lines.
You have everything to gain when searching in our warehouse today. I once commented on the moderators forum that I had reached a milestone of over 1000 pictures posted, and I received a rude comment that reaching 1000 picture posts meant I was a bandwidth hog. Place the new inner bearing race in the hub and gently tap in down into its seat with the punch, striking it in a circular fashion until it seats flush. Use a torque wrench to tighten the wheels. At this point I would really just find an axle from a junk yard that would bolt right up.