They are usually very brittle and not serviceable once you get them out. Be careful in working with this assembly! I realize this picture is too small to see them Click on the picture for a larger one , but trust me, they are there. The purpose of a is to control the flow of engine coolant to the heater core, located within the passenger compartment. The 12 volt motor shown here is a standard 12v replacement motor available at any of our truck vendors. Valves are disassembled, bead blasted, cleaned, and straightened when necessary. This lever is indexed and should be put back exactly where you found it.
The part number is 0505510. Here is the heater just taken out of the truck. Feel free to call or e-mail me, but I prefer to talk to you personally on the phone. Inside of the copper tube and bellows is an unknown type of gaseous refrigerant that allows it to work as advertised. Other than the stainless nuts and washers, this motor looks like it's factory new. We reserve the right to adjust the core charge depending upon its restorability. Aligning the top and bottom halves are no problem whatsoever.
Loosen the hold down nut and bolt from the negative battery cable end and remove the connector from the battery post. To repair a faulty switch, you sometimes have to replace the heater control. Year: 1953 Make: Chevrolet Type: Truck Model: N3 Body: 1. Install that in the correct orientation and no taping is necessary! Finish off the case install by adding two Acorn Nuts to the back two threaded rods to give it a more finished look. The Hemostats hold everything straight while the needle nose pliers does the work.
This will help you orient the parts later. Elongating the holes will not change anything and it will be a nice snug fit. Usually a leaking control valve will have to be replaced in order to repair the leak. Very carefully bend the tabs up on the plate enough for the tube to come out. Very carefully wedge an Exact-o knife in under the tab and carefully lift it enough to get the next thicker putty knife blade, very small screwdriver, whatever you need to slowly and carefully bend them up just enough to get the bellows loose. If it works as intended, the plunger will go down magically all by itself! Non corrosive, safe water flow control for a variety of applications. Remove that, and it should all make perfect sense.
This will prevent any shorts from damaging the electrical components. If you can not easily reach the lower radiator hose, jack the vehicle up and secure it on to gain better access. Remove the vacuum line from the vacuum motor and check for engine vacuum. Begin by removing the Spring in the picture shown on the right. Step 15: Clean up afterward. Heat always on or air conditioning cools at idle but not at highway speeds Pinch off the hose on the outlet side of the heater control valve the hose closest to the firewall and drive the vehicle at highway speeds.
We will use no packing or anything to keep our 12 volt motor centered, nor will we remove anything from the 12 volt motor. Remove the clip and the lever and blast or clean everything in that area, then put it all back together before moving on. These Ranco Valves are not rechargeable and once the copper is broken the entire unit is useless. Truthfully it is antiquated and does not regulate the temperature like modern vehicles, but that was what we had back in the day. Therefore, be sure to consult your factory service manual for complete and detailed instructions specific to your vehicle. It takes a little work to remove the 6 volt guts, but once you have done this, you have a perfectly original looking 12 volt motor. The work is guaranteed for one year.
I also have new valves from 1950-1975 for all makes of automobiles and light trucks. If you do have that kind, remember the orientation for assembly. When the heater or defroster is turned on, warm engine coolant passes through the heater core. I sandblast the case parts inside and out then using a Dremel Tool with a light wire brush, clean everything. Follow the step-by-step guide below for directions for replacing a.
If you need to dig into your doors, dash or console, Alldatadiy. Once you are 90% there, you can be just a tad more aggressive with the hammer to set them. Rather than painting over it and calling it a day, let's address these problems further. Next let's separate the plate from the rest of the assembly. This keeps the base from distorting and causing a leak. You can remove the Hemostats now. Once free, the parts to the right should be what you have as well.
The paint is made by the Kilz corporation and its called Hammerite Rust Cap Bronze. Here are the parts all laid out and painted. There are two of these bumpers in the heater assembly. The one on the left is the 6 volt original and the one on the right is a 12 volt replacement. There is quite a bit of force on these tabs and you will want them to be strong when you bend them back down later.
You can't do it without clamping force and it's not a good idea to force things into place. Between these pictures and mine, you should have a clear idea of how it works, but if you have questions, there is always email deve speedprint. And, if the air conditioning runs colder with the hose clamped off, the valve is causing the problem. Here a fan forces air across the surface of the heater core and then into the passenger compartment where the warm air is felt. Just hit it with a few short shots.