I don't know what the components of Kodak rapid fixer are, but I would suppose that they are the same as in Ilford's: amonium thiosulfate, sodium acetate, sodium sulfite, and sodium bisulfite. Figure maybe 6 to 7 rolls of film through a litre and that's about it. What I didnt like about the fixer is that it is non-hardening, so it leaves the negative more scratch prone then hardening fixers like Kodak Kodafix. If I were shooting roll film and developing a couple of rolls every few days, I would likely keep a liter of fix 1+4 going till it reached exhaustion clip test! Kit makes 1 gal: 32oz solution A and 3. Stir until the developer is completely mixed.
If the stain is slight, it will not affect image stability, negative contrast, or printing times. For tray processing sheets, especially using two-bath fixing, saving fixer just isn't practical for me. The Ilford Rapid Fixer was part of the mix. Except for such, replacement, this product is sold without warranty or liability even though defect, damage, or loss is caused by negligence or other fault. That helps to clear the pink sensitizing dye out of the emulsion during the wash stage in a few minutes. Perfect consistency or a guaranteed archival fix is not as important for us as getting a first experience with hand processing film.
Since the first bath does the majority of the fixing work, it is the one in which the silver content builds up quickest in, as well as the one that eventually contains the highest concentration of more complex silver compounds the ones you don't want in your emulsions! Fomapan clears in less than 30 seconds in fresh Ilford Rapid Fix 1+4 making that the fastest. And there's no rule, formula or guideline for using old or exhausted fixer that could be considered good standard practice. The bi-products from the fixing process soak into your paper the longer the papers is in the solution and that is what you want to avoid. Save the pieces that you trim off when squaring the edge for the film reels. This fixer is also a convenient liquid and it gives off less irritating fumes than the hardening fixers that I once used. If you fix waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long, you'll end up with no image at all.
However, if the stain is pronounced and irregular over the film surface, refix the film in fresh fixer. When the clearing time increase to twice the clearing time of new fixer, he recommends you discard the solution and mix fresh. Stainless-Steel Tanks or 10- or 20-oz. Avoid prolonged or repeated contact with skin. It says inside that the film needs 2-5 minutes of fixing in Ilford Hypam or Rapid Fix. Destroy or thoroughly clean contaminated shoes.
Differences in machine design that affect agitation and crossover times from one tank to the next may require development-time adjustments. Suddenly failure set in on the 12th roll. The clip test is your friend here. We do not recommend its use for high temperature or machine processing applications. Call a physician or poison control center immediately. Firmly tap the tank on the top of the work surface to dislodge any air bubbles. Now, what about using a single fixer bath, but really high replenishment rate or frequent fixer replacements to minimize silver loss to the wash water? Add water to bring the solution to the total volume 1 or 10 gallons, depending on the package size.
Keep in mind, I mix up 3 gallon batches in a tank for student use. It gives a slightly warm neutral image tone with most papers. Negatives Are Cloudy After Fixing? Wash completely-toned prints for 30 minutes, partially-toned prints 1 hour in running water at 65-75°F 18-24°C. Its been a while ,but I believe we used rapid fix on paper at 1 to 4 , as this was for a newspaper and speed in fixing was important, this might be a bit of a hot dilution. Fresh is the only way to get proper results. It has nothing to do with using it all the same day, its about the silver content inside the fixer solution that prevents it for working at full capacity.
Well, now you will have higher fixer costs, plus your recovery system will have greater volume with lower silver concentration going to recovery. Wash for 20 to 30 minutes in running water at 65 to 75°F 18 to 24°C with a flow rate that provides at least one complete change of water in 5 minutes. Kodak recommends 2 to 4 min. However, it is better to err on the side of too long than too short unless process optimization is really an issue. Bruce - Kodak gives a range of fixing times because different films have different fixing requirements. With every rapid fixer and contemporary film I've used over the years fixing for 3-5 minutes is fine.
Then repeat this agitation procedure at 30-second intervals for the rest or the development time. Provide initial agitation of 5 to 7 inversion cycles in 5 seconds, i. It is especially useful for detailed subjects when you need maximum image quality. They are representative of production coatings, and therefore do not apply directly to a particular box or roll of photographic material. Film is TriX, Kodak standard fixer, not the rapid stuff. Then again, I use a hypo chek to see if the fixer is exhausted.
Place the sheet in the water presoak at 68°F 20°C. This film has good latitude and responds well to changes in development time. I would probably lend them my car if they called and asked for it with at least an hour's notice. If absolutely necessary and no fresh fixer is available, sure, you can try extended fixing. One question I do have is why Ronald says you shouldn't use hardener.
Process control strips are not required with this developer. They are not designed to work together. I like it, though, because some films are actually not supposed to use rapid fixers. Some variable was making it work sometimes, and not other times. Be sure the developer is at 68°F 20°C. Photographic Chemicals from Ilford and Kodak Ilford Paper Developer The range of Ilford paper developers includes products that cover all the general purpose black and white paper processing applications.