Ok , here is a simpler version. It is a common fault and i have just not bothered after that. Be especially mindful of the thermister's location in the seat. Starting with the heated seats as its freaking cold here this month the light on the switches light up for both seats, but no heat at all. The check engine, trac light and traction control lights were all on. There should be three pins in the vehicle wiring harness under the seat. Your '97 may be different.
Just put a wrench on the nut of the pulley shaft and you can move the pulley to relieve the tension do not to loosen the nut and slip the old belt off. Apart from all of that be under no illusions about a Lexus like any car basically anything can go wrong but it is a quality product and if well maintained it is a good starting point and I still love mine I still do in 2016. It will show the heaters in action as the car has enough voltage stored to not be replenished by the alternator to run the car. It turned out to be quite simple. The thermister's job is to sense the temperature of the seat and adjust the heater accordingly. If you want an in-car phone an upscale electronics center might have digital in-car phones that you could install in place of the existing analog unit. It kind of sucks even for an experienced tech.
If there is power to the plug, and there aren't any other problems, you know that the problem is in the seat itself. I have chased the circuit s all the way beyond the switch group and relays embedded within the switch module. Again: you are not removing the whole mass, just gaining access to the heating element. The traction control can throw up a warning light, I have never had this but it is reported as a common fault on the Lexus owners club site. Mine is a '97, but should be similar.
There are also adapters that allow some hand-held cel … l phones to be inserted so that they become an in-car phone. I'm trying to source this now, as my local Toyota dealership wants way too much money for this part. Apr 16, 2011 For the heated seats it is usually an open element in the lower seat portion. At the same time check the 'gauge' fuse', there is a fuse location diagram on the cover. I'm trying to source this now, as my local Toyota dealership wants way too much money for this part. I do know that coffee was spilled in the car at some point, but a local shop told me the elements were burned out so i didn't think that was the problem. Look for, wear on the bolsters and any tears.
Be sure that all the plugs in the heated seats are free of corrosion or dirt that may inhibit them from working correctly. Time to get in there with a multimeter to see that you have voltage applied at seat connector when switched on. Has anyone knelt on the seat when reaching in to get something out of the car? They don't last forever, although they do still work in my 92. Now turn on the bun warmer and measure the voltage on the supply side. Did you ever figure out a solution to this? The only reason I can think of per the diagram you posted is that a connector is not coneccted to the back portion.
I had to suck it up on this one. Ended up being the sub throttle positioning sensor and one of the O2 sensors. It is clipped to the pan, and the leather itself has some industrial strength Velcro holding the fore-aft seams in place. Did someone spill a coke or?? Expect resistance to be very low. The thermostat is buried somewhere in the bottom seat cushion. A common problem on these cars. If you have a voltmeter check for 12 volts on this wire, if you have it the element s have gone one in the seat base and one in the seat back.
What would cost so much to have fixed? There are also some plastic channel-type connectors sewn into the leather seam going left to right. I then replaced the drivers seat with a seat from a mark 3 which had only done 50k miles because the leather on the original seat was worn and was letting the car down but to my surprise the heated seat still does not. You will need to move the seat while you're working on removing the base leather. Also, does the power control work on the passenger seat? Start with the forward most adhesive strip, and work your way rear-ward. I would like to have it repaired if something I get get one of my brothers or husband to do.
If, when you remove the seat cover, you see burn spots in the fabric that covers the heater element wire, you know there's a break in the circuit. I am having the same issue and would like to get it fixed before Ski season. It is to the point that in traffic last night it was so warm i had to open a window in 20 degree weather. Pull the pump out straight and you are free. Apparently the most likely culprit is the speed sensor and that costs £300+ This is a heavy car and one that's done over 100,000 is very likely to need some suspension work.
Use a continuity tester to determine whether there is continuity between the pins. But it is soooooo much fun to stand on the accelerator once in awhile and wakeup all 300hp! However, i'm not 100% convinced seeing as how the mileage is so low. Remove the pulley no special tools needed. I tried the average mechanic route but was not successful. Many owners just put up with this, the rear vision mirror is also known to suffer with a similar fault. Car is currently at 140,000mi and instrument panel is fine! Because I did a bit of time in my career in the automotive seat mechanisms business I will break it down as follows: Do not bother disconnecting the battery. Use the master key to turn the lock located below the steering wheel.